Brooklyn Brewery Beer Exhibition w/Garrett Oliver
Saturday, April 16, 2011 at 3:05PM 
Wednesday, April 20th @ 3pm
What happens when you cross a great Brewmaster with a Chef, Writer, Historian, Public Speaker, and Palate Extraordinaire? Well, if you throw in some major sartorial flair, you get Garrett Oliver - Craft Beerʼs renaissance man, a guy so articulate and wide ranging in his interests, he could probably explain the science behind the original Manhattan Project as easily, and clearly, as the liquid version he created with Cocktail Expert David Wondrich.
Back in the late 1980ʼs, I remember hearing about a hot new brewer working at the Manhattan Brewing Company. I tasted his beer - a balanced IPA, a rich Imperial Stout (the recipe would eventually become his Brooklyn Chocolate Stout) before I met the man. I knew I was in the company of an artist Iʼd be following for a long time, and luckily for us, Steve Hindy had the same reaction, and hired Garrett as Brooklyn Brewmaster in 1994.
Actually, Garrettʼs approach to brewing is more chef-like than anything else - he starts with an idea for a beer and then builds a recipe through his vast knowledge of ingredients and technique, as well as his understanding of flavors and how to achieve them. Brooklynʼs Brewmasterʼs Reserve, featuring a new beer every two months, is really his rotating chefʼs special, while his foodie book, The Brewmasterʼs Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food, was a finalist for the James Beard Foundation Book Award. When it comes to the marriage of food and beer, he is Craft Beerʼs high priest, having given more than 500 beer dinners and tastings in eight different countries.
So it wasnʼt surprising when Garrett was tapped to be Editor-in Chief and leading author of the Oxford Companion to Beer, which, when itʼs released this fall, will instantly become our industriesʼ ultimate reference book. Clocking in at over 900 pages, this tome will have thousands of entries on every beer-related topic imaginable including history, styles, methods of production, ingredients, yeasts, wild fermentations, innovations and more, a full compendium of present brewing knowledge, and unlike any beer book ever published.
That wasnʼt enough for Garrett of course: while facing a March deadline for the book, he also oversaw Brooklyn Breweryʼs largest expansion ever, the installation of a state-of-the-art brewhouse that will allow them to go from 12,000 to nearly 100,000 barrels a year once all the fermentation tanks are in place. Mayor Bloomberg cut the ribbon on the expansion of their Williamsburg headquarters Feb 15th, while admitting he prefers his beer on the rocks (Itʼs remarks like this that make our Mayor the anti-Renaissance Man). As soon as the new brewhouse was up and running, Garrett pulled a series of all nighters to finish his encyclopedia of beer a couple of weeks later.
When I visited him in the middle of March, there was definitely less of him to hang out with - he lost 30 pounds over the past year - but he also looked a lot happier. Now he can focus on being a chef - I mean brewer - again. Heʼs got some intriguing projects in the works, including some wild stuff from his barrel room, liquids that will further blur the line between beer and wine. Though the pressure is off, I doubt Garrett will slow down much. In fact, as we were tasting a bottle of his Baconator (a beer made from rendered bacon fat), a driver said it was time to head off to yet another beer dinner, this one at Foxwoods with Tom Collicchio.
My guess is Garrett will continue to make the Medicis look like underachievers...
Dave Brodrick
The list:
Dark Matter
Manhattan Project
Cuvee Noire
Savoir Faire
Cuvee de Cardoz
Intensified Coffee Stout
Cookie Jar Porter
Main Engine Start
Wild One
2006 Local One (The Test Batch)
1997 Brooklyn Chocolate Stout
2007 Dark Matter Cask
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I ignored the history of this brewery. And a little culture never hurt.
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